For those who don’t know me — I’m Tracey from traceyjay quilts (and traceyjay quilts pattern shop)! I have one handsome husband, two sweet and adorable children, and I love to quilt when I have the time (which is rare these days!)
I made these two quilts for two sweet babies in my life (no, not my own). This little tutorial has been in the works a long time! I actually finished a second one for my niece (in Sunkissed) before the original was done. I hope you can forgive the delay; I would personally like to think I have a good excuse. So — even though these particular lines are now hard to find, I have no doubt this design would sew up beautifully in Reunion, the new Lucy’s Crab Shack or even Mama Said Sew… as it already was adorable in two other Sweetwater lines.
I need to note for those who want to make one of their own — there was a lot of “winging it” while making this quilt, and the measurements are not exact and precise in all ways. This tutorial is then my attempt to give you a bit of insight in to my (less than perfect, but hey they work) methods. I would not recommend this design for a first project, because you are working with so many bias edges, as well as oddly shaped setting triangles. If you’re willing to exercise a little patience, I’m confident though that you’ll love the results.
1 yd. contrast for sashing (will have some leftover for binding)
1 yd. for setting diamonds and triangles
1/2 yd. or charm pack for border
2 yards backing (might need more if sending quilt to a long-arm)
leftover jelly roll strips and sashing for binding
– Sort your jelly roll strips by dark, medium, and light value
– Group in to sets of five, following the pattern of dark/light/dark/light/dark and light/dark/light/dark/light. If your sashing is dark in value, you will need three sets with light on the outside, and two sets with darks on the outside. Switch if your sashing is light (like in the Sunkissed example), and make more groups with dark on the outside (twenty-five strips total, with thirteen light and twelve medium or dark — reverse if using light sashing). The picture below shows a set of strips that are dark/light/dark/light/dark.
– Sew in to sets with a 2″ off-set for each strip (see picture). There is no need to trim selvage. Press very well (either open or to one side; I alternated directions for the dark vs. light strip set)
|There is a quarter inch off-set when each section is joined to the next.|
– Make eight diamond blocks (each with five strip pieced sections — see pic directly below for what a finished block looks like)
Using the template, you need to make setting triangles for your sides, corners, and top/bottom. Depending on your fabric choice (if it is directional or not), you will need to pay attention to how you orient your template. I like freezer paper because I can just iron it down, and then use the rotary cutter to cut my setting triangle.
This picture also shows how your rows will be sewn together (diagonally).
Cut and piece 1 1/2″ strips long enough for your length of sashings. You will need some “short” sashing strips (that go along the edge of the blocks/setting triangles in one direction, and some “long” (that go along the edge of the rows to join the rows together). Use your template, or measure the edge of your block, and make sure there is enough length to fully extend past the edge, so it can be trimmed later (this is important when dealing with bias edges.
Sew a length of sashing along the “short” edge of your setting triangles or block. The end of the sashing will extend past the end of the triangle or block. Use your ruler to trim the edge.
Here is the “short” piece of sashing trimmed.
When joining two blocks together along the “short” edges, use your quilting ruler and measure 2 1/4″ from the edge (as shown in picture), and then trim the overhang of the sashing.
Piece your blocks and triangles together in diagonal rows, and then join diagonal rows to one another, with a long strip of sashing in between.
It can be tricky to join the rows of diamonds lined up when adding the sashing — I pressed a 1/4″ seam along one edge (similar to when joining the strip-pieced sections for the blocks), and then used a pencil to mark where the sashing needed to line up in order to make a straight line of the “short” edges. (This is another one of those spots I mentioned earlier where I did some “winging it,” and you might be able to tell from the picture that particular seam was ripped at least once so I could get it right.)
Square up your top (I did not have precise measurements here — I just did my best to even out all my edges!), add a 5″ strip or pieced charm squares on each side, and you’ve got a quilt top!
Make your backing; Layer; Baste; Quilt; Bind — Done!
For the variation of this quilt I did for my niece Libby, in Sunkissed, I framed each block with a coordinating solid, then sashed in white, used assorted fabrics for the setting triangles, and used a charm pack for the side borders. This makes for a bigger quilt overall — just make sure you use the block WITH the framing to make your template for the setting triangles. The other steps for making this quilt are the same as described in this tutorial here.
A very “sweet” quilt measuring about 42″ x 56″