I count myself among those who’d like to give a big hug, and maybe even a NOBEL PRIZE, to the person who invented fusible webbing! Fusible webbing has given us the ability to quickly embellish quilts, clothing, and innumerable other objects. In her Sept. 16th Bake Shop post, Angela Yosten explained the basics of machine applique using fusible webbing.
- You’re free to cut away the extra fabric and interfacing under the appliqued piece.
- Substitute FabriSolvy for the interfacing, and rinse it away after appliqueing your design to the background. The art quilt in the top photo was done this way.
- Decorative stitches may be used instead of hidden ones.
- If the applique design has a direction (as with the little bird), the way it points as you look at the interfacing is the direction it will point after sewing. So if desired, you can reverse the direction by simply flipping the interfacing before sewing, since the drawn line will be visible on either side of the interfacing.
- The applique piece doesn’t have to be closed on all sides. In fact, this technique is even easier if at least one edge of the design is open (where it will be overlapped by another piece or where it lays at the quilt edge), as was the case with the quilt in the top photo.
- If you’re having trouble getting the edge to press nicely, cut a piece of heat-resistant template plastic a “hair” smaller than the shape, insert it through the slit in the interfacing and press. Remove the template and press again.
- Forgive me for stating the obvious, but this method works nicely for hand-applique projects, too!
May your projects be many and your frustrations few,
Today our Bake Shop Basics series continues with Chef Anjeanette sharing the proper way to make and attach quilt borders.
Do you ever finish your quilt and wonder why your sides are wavy and won’t lay flat? You may not have put your borders on correctly.
Taking one border strip at a time, fold lengthwise in half and then again into fourths. Place a pin at the fold points. You will end up with three pins in the border. Fold your quilt in half and then fourths, and pin the fold points. With right sides together, pin the ends of the border to the ends of the quilt. Match the center pins from the border and quilt and pin together. Match the quarter marks from the border and quilt and pin together. I then fill in between the pins with at least one more pin for each fourth.
There often is a little bit of excess fullness or fabric on either the border side or the quilt top. Whichever side seems more full, place towards the feed dogs when sewing. The feed dogs will help ease any fullness out.
You may need to gently hold the fabric taught in front of the presser foot as you sew to help ease any fullness out.
If it seems like there isn’t any fullness or excess fabric on either the border, or the quilt top, place the quilt top towards the feed dogs when sewing.
- Using a walking foot for these long seams is helpful.
- It is okay if you have to piece or sew two strips together to make the total length measurement. Just make sure you are cutting your border to the correct measurement before sewing on.
A perfectly flat quilt with borders.
Machine Applique is probably the most favorite thing I love about sewing. If there is a way to put an applique on something, you can almost guarantee that I will put it on there.
There are two types of applique that can be done by machine… applique and reverse applique.
1. An applique is when a piece of fabric is cut into a shape then stitched on top of a base fabric.
2. Reverse applique is when the shape is cut from the base fabric and another piece of fabric is attached underneath the base fabric so that fabric shows through the cut shape. You then stitch towards the top base fabric to secure in place.
Stitch Types… it’s a personal thing. Use what you like best.
Every sewing machine should have some basic stitches which are great to use with machine applique. Some machines have even more options from heirloom to decorative style stitches. Any stitch will work as long as you stitch along the edge of your applique fabric. Always use a test piece of fabric before sewing with new stitches to be sure you know where you needle is going and where to line up your fabrics with your machine foot.
Basic Applique Stitches… (A) Straight, (B) Zig-Zag, (C) Satin, (D) Blanket
Decorative Stitches… (E-F) Each model of machine has its own unique decorative stitches. I typically look for a stitch that has a straight edge in the stitching that I can line up with the raw edge of my applique to use as a guide when stitching.
Just remember these three rules when machine appliqueing…
1. Use a high quality thread to help keep your stitches in tact for years to come. I like to use Aurifil Thread 50 wt and 40 wt in my sewing machine because of the quality and strength.
2. Use a fusible webbing to adhere your applique to your base fabric. Pellon makes two fantastic fusible webbing’s… Wonder-Under and Heavy Duty Wonder-Under. I use the regular wonder-under when working with a single piece of fabric. The Heavy Duty Wonder-Under is great for a scrap applique when there are seams in the applique that the webbing needs to adhere to.
3. Have fun and experiment with new stitches. I personally believe there is no wrong way to stitch on an applique. Be creative and try something new.
Get inspired and create something!
Moda Fabrics featured… Flats by Angela Yosten and Bella Solid White.
Aurifil Threads featured… Flats by Angela Yosten in 50 wt
Stitches featured are from a Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP sewing machine.