Finished Quilt Size: Approximately 40″ x 40″
Welcome back to the Cabins! I had so much fun with the Down on the Farm quilt on the September 26th Bake Shop, that I just had to return with a couple of “minis” for everyone. The gorgeous Midwinter Reds fabric line from Minick and Simpson is just perfect for building log cabins, so I am going to continue the theme here.The table topper size quilt is going to look amazing for my Christmas decorating and the little mini is a show stopper at any time of the year and will be showcased in a prominent spot in my quilting studio.
– Marlene Biles, Sipiweske Quilts
Ingredients for Star Cabins:
1 – “Midwinter Reds” layer cake by Minick and Simpson
First border: 1/4 yard
Second border: 1/4 yard
Third border: 1/2 yard
1/4 yard background fabric for paper-pieced cabin blocks
1/3 yard centre squares and binding fabric
1 1/4 yards of backing fabric (ensure that there is at least 42“ of usable width – if not, you will need to purchase extra and piece it together to get the width required.)
44” x 44” batting
Template from Printer Friendly file
Ingredients for Mini Log Cabins:
Scraps from the layer cake
Two copies of the pattern sheet
Scraps of fabric for borders
Frame with a mat opening of 8” x 8”
Template from Printer Friendly file
Double matting to match your mini log cabin;
Barn board frame to finish off your masterpiece.
Line up the left hand edges of your stack as close to perfect as possible. Measure 1 5/8” from the left raw edge and make your first cut.
Continue cutting 1½” strips.
From the light strips cut 4 – 1½” strips from each print and from the dark prints, cut 5 – 1½” strips – all your strips will be 10” long – do not cut into shorter segments at this stage. If you prefer, cut one strip less of each of the prints and then just go back later in the construction process and cut a few of the prints that you feel you want to have a bit more of.
Using the yardage that you have chosen for your centre squares, cut 1 – 1½” x 42” strip and sub-cut into 16 – 1½” squares.Before you start sewing – check your seam allowance. A perfect 1/4” is preferred, but in all cases ensure that whatever seam allowance you start with you continue through the entire quilt construction process. To achieve the 7” finished square blocks for this project, I needed to move my needle setting over to the right by a couple of nudges. Everyone’s machine may sew just a bit different and everyone’s presser foot might be a bit different, so be prepared to maybe have a 7” x 7” finished block, and maybe not.
HOW TO SEW LOG CABIN BLOCKS
Step One: Place a centre square and a light strip right sides together and join with a 1/4” seam, using the machine’s presser foot as a guide. Now line up your ruler against the straight edge of Print #1, and using your rotary cutter trim away the excess of Print #2 (refer to the block legend shown earlier for reference). Open squares and press seam allowance away from the centre square.
NOTE: Remember that the last strip you added is always on top under the needle. Sew with the wrong side of the finished work facing you, the new strip will always be underneath so that you can see the seam allowances and guide them away from the centre of the block as you stitch.
Step Two: Lay this unit on top of another light strip – right sides together. Stitch this seam as shown in the photo. Ensure that you push the seam allowance up as you sew over it. Trim off piece #3 evenly with piece #1. Press seam allowance away from the centre square.
Step Three: Turn the unit so that piece #3 is at the top and lay this section over a dark strip (#4). Align the raw edges and stitch, ensuring that the previous seam allowance is pushed upwards. Trim unit evenly with piece #1 and #2. Press seam allowance away from the centre square.
Step Four: Now lay this partial block on top of another dark strip (#5). Stitch and trim strip #5 even with the edge of unit #2 and #3. Open up and press.
Continue adding and trimming strips in this manner, always turning the block counter-clockwise as you add strips, until you have a block 7 1/2” x 7 1/2” square that looks like the block above. Assembly line piecing works very well with this type of block if a planned colour placement is used. As in the samples shown here, the prints are randomly placed which makes it a bit more difficult to use the assembly line method – a modified version does work, but not quite as efficiently.
Give all of your blocks a final pressing and get them stacked and ready to lay out into a quilt. Refer to the photo below or play around with different layouts to find one that appeals to you.
- Measure the four sides of the quilt top, and mark down the most consistent measurement.
- From your first border print cut four (4) 1 1/2” strips of your recorded measurement.
- From your second border print cut four (4) 2” strips of your recorded measurement.
- From your third border print cut four (4) 4” strips of your recorded measurement.
- Sew the first and second border strips together, matching at either end. Press the seam to the darker print. Repeat for the other three sides of the quilt.
- Sew the third border strip to the second border strip, matching at either end. Press the seam to the darker print. Repeat for the other three sides of the quilt.
- Sew a border strip set to two opposite sides of the quilt top, matching at either end (pin at intervals along the entire length). Press seam towards the border.
- Sew a paper pieced cabin block to either end of the remaining two border strip sets.
- Pin this border unit, right sides together and matching seams at borders, sew the final two borders in place to complete the quilt top.
Final pressing: Your quilt top is now done and ready for one final pressing before being layered and basted for quilting.
- Reduce your stitch length to a smaller one than you usually use.
- Trim each seam to less than 1/4” so that it fits into the strip width of the block.
- Be sure to always clip your threads – you don’t want to be dealing with those when working with such a tiny project.
- When cutting your blocks apart on the pattern sheet be sure to leave extra paper around the dashed lines – this makes it easier to hang onto and reminds you to make sure that the fabric is wide enough to go past the seam lines on the pattern.5. Pressing as you go is not necessary. The project is small enough that a quick finger press is all that is required. If you do use your iron, remember to PRESS the blocks – do not iron them from side to side. A final press once the blocks are completed is recommended before trimming.