Tiles Quilt


Hello,  my name is Cindy Sharp.  I am the person behind Tops to Treasures.  I am thrilled to be back with Moda’s Bake Shop today…presenting my original pattern, “Tiles.”

The name isn’t very flashy, but I could think of no better word to describe the effect of this pattern.  It takes me back to a time when things were made for both beauty and function, when floors were more than something to walk on, and back splashes did more than protect the kitchen wall.
Using the Printemps line of fabric by 3 Sisters elevates my tiles to a whole other level.  These carefully pieced blocks no longer belong on a floor or wall, but in a garden filled with life and light and fresh air.  It is wholly appropriate that this line was given the name Printemps.  French for springtime, the name delivers all that it promises.
The drawings in my pattern feature a different line of fabric, also by 3 Sisters.  Vin du Jour provided the heady bouquet of color that inspired my pattern.
In either fabric line the quilt is fantastic.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
Tiles is made from 30 blocks that finish at 12″ square.  There are 15 blocks that turn one way and 15 blocks that turn the other.  You can see it in the quilt if you look for mirror images.  To get a better understanding look at the drawings below.  Pay close attention to the rotation of the edge pieces.  In the picture on the left  the golden arm is reaching toward the right….the edge patch arms all reach in the same rightward direction.  (Is rightward a word?  Did I just make that up?!)  In the other picture they all reach toward the left.
Right Reaching Block
Left Reaching Block
Each of the 30 blocks is made from 9 patches.  I like the center patch the best!  It is just a 4 1/2″ square!
Corner Patch
The corner patches are straight forward as well.  They are pieced, but the directions are the same for every corner patch in the quilt.
Left Reaching Edge Patch
The edge blocks are the tricky part.  Due to the restrictions of standard markings on my ruler (not just mine, yours are marked the same way) I chose to foundation piece this portion of the block.   Please don’t be turned off by this decision.  I’ve written a tutorial to help you with this type of construction.  The process is as straight forward as that used in the corner patches…it is just different.  Time to grow my quilty friends.  You can do this!  If you have any trouble understanding the process please feel free to contact me.  I’d love to walk you through it.
I designed Tiles to take advantage of dark and light colors in a fabric line.   There are several in the Moda line up that would work.  My drawings are all done using Vin du Jour by 3 Sisters.  It is a striking quilt when done in just a few colors.

My sample quilt is made using Printemps also by 3 Sisters.  This line is softer.  Where Vin du Jour is dramatic and bold, Printemps is romantic and subtle.  Using a softer pallete will create more of a blended quilt.

What ever you decide keep in mind that you need approximately the same amount of yardage for either option.

For a scrappy quilt, like mine, use the fat quarter equivalents listed in parenthesis.   There should be enough fabric in a fat quarter bundle to obtain the variety that you need, however, some fabric lines lean more heavily towards lights or darks.  If this is the case with the one you have chosen remember to supplement your bundle purchase with enough yardage to complete the light/dark requirements.
Yardage Required
(#FQs)
     SKU
What I used
Dark
1 1/4 yds (5)
44031-15
44037-15
44036-15
44030-15
44030-25
5 reds from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Light
1 1/4 yds (5)
44033-12
44032-22
44031-12
44030-22
44030-12
5 yellows from Printemps by 3Sisters
Lattice A
1 yd (4)
 44032-23
44031-13
44036-13
44030-13
44035-23
5 pinks from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Lattice B
1 yd (4)
    44037-14
44031-14
44032-24
44030-24
44030-14
5 aquas from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Background
2 3/4 yds
 44036-41 tiny pink floral on cream
Inner Border
½ yd
 44303-24 tone on tone aqua
Outer Border
1 1/4 yds
 44033-12 medium floral on yellow
Binding
3/4 yd
 44037-15 white diamonds on red
Backing
5 yds
 44030-12 large floral on yellow
  • 12 Sandwich sized zip lock baggies:  To  make your P.I.G. (project in a sack) easier to corral I highly recommend placing your pieces in zip lock baggies as you cut them.  You will need 12 baggies to do this.  Place all 30, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ dark squares in one bag, all 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ dark squares in another bag, etc.  If you use the kind that has a freezer label built into it you can write yourself a note as to the size and purpose of the piece.  (I didn’t bag up my borders or binding.)
  • 60 paper copies of each page on the following file:  Edge Patch Pattern You should have 60 of each of 2 pages for a total of 120 pages.
    • Before you print 60 copies
      • Please make sure that the solid lines forming the right angles measure 4″
      • Mark the pattern pieces of the original copy so that you know which piece goes to which type of block.  (This will be important if your piles get knocked over.)
      • Consider making a few extra copies….just in case.
 
Cutting Directions:
    • Darks
      • 30, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares for center of blocks
        • If from yardage -
          • Cut 4, 4 1/2″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
          • Sub-cut 3 strips into 9, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares each for a total of 27 squares
          • Sub-cut 3, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 30.
        • If from fat quarters
          • Cut 8, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strips
            • 2, 4 1/2″ x 18″strips from each of 3 fat quarters,
            • + 1, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strip from the 2 remaining for a total of 8 strips
          • Sub-cut strips into 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares each for a total of 32.  (you will have two extra.)
      • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares for corner patches of blocks
        • If from yardage -
          • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips
          • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from each for a total of 112 squares
          • Sub-cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 120
        • If from fat quarters -
          • Cut 18, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips
            • 4, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from each of 3 fat quarters
            • + 3, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from the 2 remaining for a total of 18 strips
          • Sub-cut 17 strips into 7, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each for a total of 119 squares
          • Sub-cut 1, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square from the last strip to complete 120
    • Lights
      • 60, 5″ x 5″ squares for corner patches of blocks
        • If from yardage -
          • Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips
          • Sub-cut 7 strips into 8, 5″ x 5″ squares each for a total of 56 squares
          • Sub-cut 4, 5″ x 5″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 60
        • If from fat quarters -
          • Cut 15, 5″ x 22″ strips
            • 3, 5″ x 22″ strips from each of 5 fat quarters
          • Sub-cut 4, 5″ x 5″ squares from each strip for a total of 60

             

 

 

 

  • Lattice A
  • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
    • Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
    • Sub-cut strips into 12, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 60 rectangles
  • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
    • Cut 3, 6 1/4″ x wof strips
    • Sub-cut 2 strips into 21, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles each for a total of 42 rectangles
    • Cut 18, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 60
  • Lattice B
  • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
    • Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
    • Sub-cut strips into 12, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 60 rectangles
  • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
    • Cut 3, 6 1/4″ x wof strips
    • Sub-cut 2 strips into 21, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles each for a total of 42 rectangles
    • Cut 18, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 60
  • Background
  • 60, 4″ x 4″ squares for corner patches of blocks
    • Cut 6, 4″ x wof strips
    • Sub-cut 10, 4″ x 4″ squares from each strip for a total of 60 squares.
  • 120, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for edge piece A1
    • Cut 8, 4 1/2″ x wof strips
    • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 112 rectangles
    • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
  • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A3
    • Cut 8, 2″ x wof strips
    • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 112 rectangles
    • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
  • 120, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B1
    • Cut 6, 3 1/2″ x wof strips
    • Sub-cut 5 strips into 21, 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 105 rectangles
    • Cut 15, 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
  • Inner Border
  • Cut 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips
  • Outer Border
  • Cut 8, 5 1/2″ x wof strips
  • Binding
  • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

 

  • Paper patterns – cut triangles apart just outside the dotted lines.

 

Break Time!
The Whole Valley In a Glass of Wine
If you just made it through all of that cutting, you really do deserve a break.  Just writing the instructions wore me out.  Put down the rotary cutter for the evening, put your feet up, and enjoy a relaxing beverage….a massage probably wouldn’t hurt either.
Sewing Directions:
Corner Patch
  • Corner Patches – Does anyone else think this block looks like an Angry Bird?!  You need to make 120, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (actual size) patches.
    • Gather baggies containing –
      • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares dark fabrics
      • 60, 5″ x 5″ squares light fabrics
      • 60, 4″ x 4″ squares  background fabric
    • When working with triangles, I like to leave things square as long as I can.  Making these patches two at a time accomplished that perfectly.
    • Gather
      • 2, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares dark fabric
      • 1, 5″ x 5″ square light fabric
      • 1, 4″ x 4″ square background fabric
    • Sub-cut the 4″ square of background fabric diagonally twice – making 4 small triangles
    • With right sides together, align right angle of 1 small triangle with right angle of small square.
Corner step 1
    • Sew pieces together.
    • Carefully iron seam allowance towards the triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
    • With right sides together, align right angle of second small triangle with opposite right angle of small square so that the “bunny ears” intersect.
Corner step 2
    • Sew pieces together.
    • Carefully iron seam allowance towards the triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
    • You should now have a large triangle made of three pieces.
    • Sub-cut 5″ x 5″ square light fabric diagonally, once – making two large triangles.
    • With right sides together, center pieced triangle on top of large triangle, aligning the hypotenuses.  Note – the pieced triangle is a little bit smaller than the large one.  It is supposed to be this way.
Corner step 3
    • Iron seam allowance towards the large triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
    • Trim patch to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square.
    • Repeat with remaining pieces to make a second patch.
    • Repeat 59 more times to make required 120 corner patches.
Left Reaching Edge Patch
  • Edge Patches – This patch looks like a  Y to me.  You need to make 60 Right facing and 60 left facing, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (actual size) patches.
    • Gather
      • Lattice A fabric
        • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
        • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
      • Lattice B fabric
        • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
        • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
      • Background fabric
        • 120, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for edge piece A1
        • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A3
        • 120, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B1
      • Paper foundation patterns
        • 60, right reaching
        • 60, left reaching
    • Use instructions in Paper Piecing tutorial to complete 120 edge patches.  I highly recommend that you keep your left reaching and your right reaching patches in separate piles.
    • NOTE: 
      •  You can easily tell a right reaching from a left reaching by setting the block in front of you with the largest triangle closest to you.  Thus situated, look at the long arm of the Y.  It reaches up and to the ______.
      • Paper Piecing is done “upside down”  do not worry if your left blocks look like right blocks and your right blocks look like left blocks.  As long as the group called left all look like each other and different from the group called right you are doing okay.
  • Blocks
    • Use the pictures for each block
    • Make one block at a time.
    • Lay your patches out in front of you and make sure that…
      • The largest triangle in the edge patch always touches the center patch.
      • The Lattice fabrics appear to continue through the block.  It kind of looks like four sticks arranged end to edge to create a large square on point.  The opposite sides of this square are the same color.
      • If the lattice sticks look broken, or you can’t get them to line up correctly, you probably have a mixture of left and right reaching edge patches.
      • The small dark squares always touch the large dark square in their interior corners.
Right Reaching Block
    •  15, Right Reaching
      • Gather
        • 15, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares dark fabric
        • 60, corner patches
        • 60, right reaching edge patches
      • Use tips outlined above to construct 15 blocks
      • Trim blocks to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″

 

Left Reaching Block
    • 15, Left Reaching
      • Gather
        • 15, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares dark fabric
        • 60, corner patches
        • 60, left reaching edge patches
      • Use tips outlined above to construct 15 blocks
      • Trim blocks to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″
  • The Top
    • Center
      • Gather
        • 15 Right Reaching Blocks
        • 15 Left Reaching Blocks
      • On a design wall (Read shower  curtain, large bed, floor if you do not have a formal design wall.  Really, these things work just as well, if not a little more awkwardly.) arrange you blocks.
        • Rows 1, 3, and 5 are all Right, Left, Right, Left, Right
        • Rows 2, 4, and 6 are all Left, Right, Left, Right, Left
        • All blocks are arranged so that Lattice A and Lattice B fabrics are oriented the same way.  In my picture you can see, all of the yellow sticks are on top and bottom of the blocks and the grey sticks are left and right.  Yours should be this way too.
        • If you are having a hard time getting the lattice to line up correctly you probably have the wrong kind of block.  Make sure the block is reaching in a different direction than the one you are placing it next to.  It is easy to do this by laying the blocks on top of each other.  You can’t miss the differences this way.
      • Sew blocks into rows.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the right reaching blocks
      • Sew rows together to complete center.
      • It should measure 60 1/2″ x 72 1/2″.
    • Inner Border
      • Gather
        • 60 1/2″ x 72 1/2″ center
        • 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips of inner border fabric
      • Sew 4, sets of 2, wof strips together skinny end to skinny end.
      • Iron seam allowance open.
      • Sew long skinny strip to top and bottom of center
      • Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
      • Trim excess
      • Sew long skinny strip to each side of center
      • Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
      • Trim excess
      • Your top should now measure 62 1/2″ x 74 1/2″
    • Outer Border
      • Gather
        • 62 1/2″ x 74 1/2″ center
        • Cut 8, 5 1/2″ x wof strips outer border fabric
      • Sew 4, sets of 2, wof strips together skinny end to skinny end.
      • Iron seam allowance open.
      • Sew long skinny strip to top and bottom of center
      • Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
      • Trim excess
      • Sew long skinny strip to each side of center
      • Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
      • Trim excess
      • Your top should now measure 72 1/2″ x 84 1/2″
  • Layer and quilt as desired.  I used a pattern called Chantilly Lace by Anne Bright with Praline thread by Signature.
I’d love to see your finished quilt.  Please send me a picture, or add it yourself to my Tops to Treasures group on Flickr.
A 72″ x 84″ quilt to be proud of.  This one will knock your socks off when it is finished.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Don’t forget the Paper foundation patterns
.

Cindy Sharp

Longarm Quilter at Tops to Treasures
My brief bio -A transplanted Yankee, and happy Texan Cindy works from her home in North Texas where she lives with her family.She started piecing quilts over 20 years ago and opened her long arm business, Tops to Treasures, in 2006.Since then she has quilted over 1,000 quilts.As a pattern designer, Cindy's goal is to write directions that encourage quilters to grow in their skills, and have fun. Her patterns are based on traditional designs, often with a modern twist.

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